Bikes, Kayaks, History, and Local Wine: An Adventurous Day at Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge
- Laura Scharle
- May 19
- 4 min read
The outdoor recreation opportunities that exist in and around Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge are diverse and plentiful. With its world-class birding opportunities and extensive water trails, you could easily spend a week or more trying to experience it all.
What makes exploring this area particularly distinctive is the deep history that is woven into the landscape. When you are cycling Wildlife Drive and the surrounding roadways, paddling the refuge water trails, and walking the trails, you are exploring the very same scenery that Harriet Tubman traversed in her efforts to lead enslaved African Americans to freedom along the Underground Railroad.
The Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad Byway consists of 45 historically significant stops across Maryland’s Eastern Shore, through Delaware, and into Philadelphia. It can be a very moving journey to explore the entire byway, but if you only have time for one adventurous day, consider the following suggested itinerary.
Begin your day at the Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad State Park and Visitor Center where you’ll begin to understand the lay of the land. Historic maps of Dorchester County and modern maps of the Byway can be viewed amongst the museum exhibits, giving you a sense for where Tubman was born, where she worked in the fields, and where she trapped muskrat in the marsh. As you make your way through this incredibly thoughtful and moving museum, you’ll travel through Harriett’s lifetime, from the darkness of slavery to the bright, sun-filled exhibits about freedom.
When you’re ready to head out for some outdoor adventures, your first stop should be Wildlife Drive. There is a small parking area at the entrance where you can unload your bike and park your car during your 7-mile ride. There is a $1 entrance fee for cyclists and pedestrians, paid by either cash or QR code. You’ll be sharing the road with cars, but the speed limit is 15 mph and everyone will be taking their time to take in the scenery, so it’s a pretty safe ride.
Many refuge visitors are eager to seek out eagles, wading birds, and a variety of waterfowl and shorebirds, but be sure to keep your eyes peeled for non-feathered creatures like turtles, snakes, muskrats, and the endangered Delmarva fox squirrel. To learn more about the wildlife of this region, the Refuge Visitor Center is definitely worth a stop.
Aside from the abundant wildlife, the scenery alone is worth the visit. Sweeping views of the marsh and waterways are breathtaking. At times you will see nothing but natural features along the horizon, making it easy to imagine what this landscape looked like during Tubman’s life. Wildlife Drive is located between where Tubman was born and where she later worked on the Brodess’ farm. You’ll be spoiled by a paved bike path to travel along, but don’t forget that Tubman and other freedom seekers had to trek through the challenging terrain of intricate marsh creeks and soggy mud flats.
Wildlife Drive is a 3.5-mile out-and-back ride, totaling 7 miles round trip. Experienced cyclists will also enjoy riding the roadways around the region—just be sure to check a tide chart, as many of the roads in this part of the county can be under water at high tide. And for those that are looking to explore more of the refuge by foot, there are several hiking trails nearby.
After you’ve wrapped up your bike ride, it’s time to get out on the water! The refuge itself has a great network of out-and-back water trails, but just to the east of the refuge on the Transquaking River is an official Maryland DNR water trail that’s a 5.5-mile loop. To access the loop, you’ll want to make your way to the boat ramp by the Bestpitch Ferry bridge. On the way there, be sure to stop at the site of the Brodess Farm, where Tubman was enslaved during her childhood.
The boat ramp that provides access to the Transquaking River loop is adjacent to a wooden bridge, but as the name “Bestpitch Ferry” would suggest, a ferry once existed at this location. According to the Harriet Tubman Byway, “free and enslaved African American watermen operated ferry crossings throughout the region. They transported agricultural and timber products along the region’s many rivers [which] provided opportunities for freedom seekers to hitch a ride.” In fact, Bestpitch Ferry is marked as Stop #18 on the official Byway map. And although it’s not mentioned in the film, the introductory video at the Harriet Tubman Visitor Center includes a short clip of aerial footage of the Transquaking River water trail loop!
Depending on the wind and tide, the water trail can have some unpredictable currents, so it is not advised for beginners to attempt this loop. The trail is not marked with signs, but as long as you look at the map before you go, or follow along on a GPS tracking app (the cell signal is decent), it’s fairly easy to navigate. You’ll essentially follow the main marsh creek as it twists and turns through the marsh grasses and up against Guinea Island. Bald eagles and a variety of shorebirds are frequent sightings in this area, as well as the occasional diamondback terrapin or jumping fish.
If you don’t have your own bikes or kayaks, rentals are available at Blackwater Adventures, conveniently located just outside the refuge. They also offer guided tours.
Once you’ve wrapped up your outdoor adventures for the day, it’s finally time to find a place to kick back and relax. Luckily, Layton’s Chance Vineward & Winery is the perfect spot to do so, and it’s located just 15 minutes up the road from Bestpitch Ferry Landing. Participate in a tasting, order a glass, or share a bottle outside on the porch overlooking the countryside and grapevines. Fresh flatbread pizzas and charcuterie boards are also available. And if you’re not totally exhausted from the day’s adventures, the farm also has a nature trail that meanders around the fields and is packed with pollinator habitat.
